Thanks to other members for responses to other posts.
I have a weatherboard house in Melbourne. It is a 1940's built house clad in weatherboards with currently no insulation in the walls.
It is nearing the time when some boards will need replacing and all boards need re-painting. I'm interested in alternative cladding options and installing insulation. I have retrofitted greenstuff batts and air-cell in the ceiling/roof and was also considering this for wall insulation.
I'd welcome suggestions for alternative materials to weatherboard (due to their maintenance). I know a little about PVC type weatherboards. I've also looked into other insulating /cladding materials however they require surface render. Many people seem to be using colourbond cladding in conjunction with insulation in newer buildings. Their downside seems to be that they are more resource intensive. Thanks for your ideas, thoughts and suggestions.
re-cladding options for weatherboard house
(24 posts) (21 voices)-
projects
MemberPosted Tuesday 27 Jan 2009 @ 12:40:22 am from IP # -
ghostgum
MemberIt would be interesting to look at construction methods for colder climates, such as Canada. One method of construction there was thicker studs (200mm, not the 90mm here), which gives you more room for insulation. Outside the studs was a layer or plywood, and then the vinyl sidings (PVC weatherboards) were attached to that. I don't know what they did about reflective layers.
How are you planning to get both insulation from conduction/convection, and radiant heat?
Posted Tuesday 27 Jan 2009 @ 1:15:09 am from IP # -
projects
MemberThanks member ghostgum. I'm a little new to all the terminology so I hope I've understood you correctly. My plan (and I could be wrong about this and might need more advice) was to use greenstuff batts for keeping the warmth in and air-cell over the top of the batts and studs for the reflective layer to help keep heat out in the summer. Then some form of cladding. I need to ask air-cell which product they recommend for walls as a few of their products can be used in walls. They also have one for insulation but I'm not sure how it goes for radiant heat. You're right that the studs don't allow much space for insulation - in particular high R value batts which tend to be thicker (based on what I have in the ceiling). I think there are PVC weatherboards with insulation backing - such as the Austech product also Formplex product. How does this sound?
Posted Wednesday 28 Jan 2009 @ 1:34:11 am from IP # -
ghostgum
MemberYes, that's what I meant. I wasn't aware of the air-cell product, but I now see it provides both insulation via trapped air in the bubbles and also reflective insulation.
Another option that may be cheaper is to just put concertina foil in the spaces while you have the weatherboards removed.
http://www.concertinafoilbatts.com/
You would probably also add another layer of RFL (reflective foil laminate / sarking) across the studs before nailing on the weatherboards.
I plan to install concertina foil batts as under-floor insulation, sometime before next winter.Like with clothing, good insulation is done with lots of layers. Multiple separate layers will help, but I don't know how much. You will get to a point where the heat transfer through the windows swamps that through the wall.
Posted Thursday 29 Jan 2009 @ 1:06:28 am from IP # -
cameron
MemberI also live in Melbourne and weatherboards. In my experience the weatherboards are pretty low maintenance as long as they're kept in decent condition. Also, I'd be concerned about the embedded energy and waste stream issues for any non-wood alternative. That aside, I recently had expanding foam injected into my walls that seems to have worked well. It saved the need to remove the plasterboard or weatherboards.
Posted Sunday 1 Feb 2009 @ 12:51:11 am from IP # -
Sunshine
MemberI have an old highset Queenslander in Brisbane, 90 years old, has been aluminium clad around 35 years ago. It is still in good condition, it saves around $18,000 in sanding and repainting costs every 10 years. So I am happy with it. Aluminium is very easily recyclable.
The neighbour's house has PVC cladding, but it seems to suffer from warping/movement. Not sure if it is due to heat.Posted Sunday 1 Feb 2009 @ 2:06:24 am from IP # -
While I'm in coastal NSW rather than Melbourne I've been involved in many cladding and frame houses.
We use a lot of Colorbond as wall cladding, preferably in longer simpler walls without too many window or door openings. This is to keep labour hours and trim angle costs under control.
Weathertex weatherboards are a wood based product, more stable long term than natural timber, reasonably low embodied energy and inexpensive. The transport energy from just North of Newcastle may be an issue. (When you say you're in Melbourne, I'm assuming a low bushfire risk level, as Weathertex does burn and can't be used in high risk areas.) The range of profiles can also make matching existing boards possible if some of yours are still viable. They are suited to light or medium paint colours. It is also available in vertically grooved panels and smooth panels. We rarely do a house in all one type of cladding.Generally we use reflective sarking (or Aircell under Colorbond - deadens the feel and sound) under the cladding, and R1.5 batts between the wall studs. A place I drew for the Southern tablelands had R2.0 batts. That's about all that will fit in a conventional 4x2 or 90mm frame.
As Ghostgum points out, the insulation levels we use here are laughable compared to actual cold climates. (Check out the European 'Passive House' websites - 300mm wall frames full of blown-in bulk insulation, no reflective because it doesn't get hot)
One critical point with the reflective outer insulation is that it's performance largely depends upon an air layer between it and the cladding. (Same for roof sarking) If it's pulled tightly over the framing it actually reduces the effectiveness. Some suppliers provide foam discs that are used as spacers between the slightly loose sarking and the cladding.
Another more complex but probably way more effective method (I saw in an old Owner Builder Magazine) was to install the sarking tightly, then fit a timber batten over each wall stud and nail the cladding right through. This gave the advantage of a very controlled, uniform (batten depth) air space, rather than the hit and miss air pockets that conventional methods provide. This is effectively the same as the tiled roof system - battens over the sarking. Of course, there is the cost of a pile of battens to be considered, as well as trim details around window and door openings.Posted Friday 6 Feb 2009 @ 7:58:51 am from IP # -
Eskimoau
MemberI'm about to build in Melbourne and will be cladding the place with fibre-cement weatherboards over foilboard insulation. I have chosen this arrangement as the fibre-cement has low embodied energy and the foilboard provides both insulation and a draft seal.
Posted Wednesday 11 Feb 2009 @ 9:33:44 pm from IP # -
dg2829
MemberYes the use of plastic foil or similar continuous sheet material under weather boards or other will provide an air seal which provided it is kept intact stops air movement stop the air moving and you will improve the heat transfer properties in a building. the foil currently used is supposed to reflect the heat back into the building BUT it must have no holes in it, it must be secured to the stud walls correctly inside the walls otherwise you get heat transfer in that area that is not sealed that is single biggest problem with a lot of new so called "5" star homes at the moment the foil wrap is not kept intact or not fitted off properly and so it defeats the reason for using it.
If you keep an eye closely on this, you will reap the benefits if you do if it must be penetrated make sure it is sealed back up around the items that penetrated it such as a pipe or power cable, if the trade person does not like the stipulation get another trade person to do the job that is OK with it.
as for cladding the house we are planning for our future farm will simply zinc alum on the outside all over roof walls the lot and like someone else mentioned the walls thickness will around 180mm or thicker depends on the insulation we choose for the walls in the end. If we chose straw bales for instance then it will a lot thicker then, at this time I'm investigating using just that with something between the straw and the wall to stop the moisture that metal gets on the inside, otherwise something like batts of some sort or similar, I'm just not sure yet.
Posted Wednesday 18 Mar 2009 @ 12:06:05 pm from IP # -
brookster
MemberA method of cladding I'm increasingly using is 'double-skinning' of a standard 90mm lightweight clad frame. The exact method varies from job to job, however typically it involves installing heavy-duty reflective sisalation over the frame as per normal, then battening vertically over the sisal, down the studs with 35mm merch grade pine, then another layer of sisalation prior to cladding with a lightweight product of choice. This creates an additional air gap which can be vented at the top into the ceiling space where the additional heat can be trapped in winter or vented in summer.
I haven't got any figures on the benefits of this system, however it undoubtedly adds a significant insulation benefit to a house for very little cost.
I've also used the system on a re-clad of an existing weatherboard house without the need to remove the old cladding.
Posted Tuesday 9 Jun 2009 @ 10:20:18 am from IP # -
greenbychoice
MemberWe recently built a house using Think Yellow EPS Panels. The company who clad our house also clad existing substrates without removing the old walling. I saw their banner in the next street re-cladding an old fibro house - it came up really well. I know they go over fibro, timber, weatherboard and it increases thermal qualities along with the look and feel of the house. Try them at http://www.moderncladding.com.au
Posted Thursday 12 Nov 2009 @ 3:37:43 am from IP # -
KarenS
MemberI put Formplex vinyl weatherboards on my dreaded west wall (about which there has been considerable discussion in the Home Sustainability Assessments thread, and of which there are pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/karenknits/4059680927/ and
http://www.flickr.com/photos/karenknits/4059680937/ ) in order to not have to paint the wretched wall every year or so.It has taken at least 5 degrees off the internal temp of the kitchen on Melbourne summer afternoons, which was an added bonus which I hadn't even thought of! The Formplex people didn't advertise any insulation qualities at the time (which was about 9 years ago), but insulation wasn't such a big deal then.
The vinyl weatherboards have a foam (pvc?) backing, and are attached to wooden battens, which are nailed to the existing weatherboards, as far as I can remember. I must admit that at the time, I didn't take too much notice of how the stuff was attached, I was just desperate to get something which would remove the need for painting like the Sydney Harbour Bridge - as soon as you got to one end, you had to go back and start again at the other ..... The insulation effect was a huge benefit, which was totally unexpected. If I was presently looking at insulating the walls, I would probably investigate thoroughly what is available, and how hard or easy it is to retrofit, but you can see from the piccies why the painting question arises! The wall faces due west, and the Formplex very neatly kills several birds with the one stone!
BTW, the photos were taken while having the house re-stumped. The re-stumping was done, the baseboards were put back on about 2 days later.
Posted Friday 13 Nov 2009 @ 3:48:25 pm from IP # -
gen
MemberIn response to member Cameron, I'm interested in insulating our weatherboard house by injecting foam into the boards instead of through the plaster - don't want the mess inside the house. Could you please let me know what you used and how you find it. I have had a quote from a Sydney company also working from Melbourne now and we live in Central Vic. We are still deciding what to do but are very keen to have it done for next winter.
Posted Wednesday 7 Jul 2010 @ 12:46:59 am from IP # -
termite
MemberA year ago, cameron (post 5 in this thread) reported having expanding foam injected into his walls.
A relative of mine had her brick veneer house in ACT treated the same way over a year ago. She reports that it has made negligible difference to her power usage.Posted Tuesday 7 Sep 2010 @ 10:01:44 am from IP # -
peddie61
Memberhi all i had my weatherboard house done in vinyl it looks great i did one i was doing up in ballarat in aluminium cladding by the same company about 2 years age there from geelong had some quotes from formplex way to pricey saved around $2000 on both jobs and no pushy sales men very easy to talk to both houses were warmer in cold weather i put revcycle in both so hard to tell if much cooler i think so paintbusters they are called
Posted Tuesday 19 Oct 2010 @ 1:08:35 am from IP # -
sandystone
MemberRe maintenance of weatherboards- The head scientist at Resene paints in NZ said at a conference that the single most effective method of lengthening the life of paint systems is to put a radius on all edges.
Where there are sharp corners, the surface tension causes all paint systems to become much thinner- ie significantly less than half thickness.
It was said that increased life of the paint by good preparation will be more substantial than any near future advances in paint chemistry.Posted Tuesday 19 Oct 2010 @ 10:32:22 am from IP # -
simplelife
MemberProjects began this thread in Jan 09- did you reclad? Are you still researching? Any photos?
We have a 1955 weatherboard which requires recladding and painting, so we are looking into insulation and Scyon weatherboards to (hopefully) eliminate drafts, and reduce noise and the need for heating and cooling during the year. Has anyone out there used Scyon weatherboards?
After reading this thread I am considering foil or aircell insulation before the weatherboards go on...
We are also considering EXPOL products, which are a polystyrene batt (reusable) which you place or tack under floorboards to eliminate heat loss. Has anyone used them?
Posted Friday 11 Nov 2011 @ 10:20:46 am from IP # -
decerebrated
MemberWe cladded our first floor extension with Unitex 100mm eps and it seems to be working well providing both thermal and acoustic insulation. My sisters first floor extension was cladded in fibro strips and is considerably warmer in summer
Posted Friday 18 Nov 2011 @ 9:38:45 am from IP # -
chazwah
MemberHas anyone used hemp batts for insulation and hemp boards for bracing and attacching weatherboard ,colourbond to.I am building soon and am really keen on using hemp products as they are carbon storers and very sustainable.However hard to get in australia.
Posted Sunday 27 Nov 2011 @ 12:12:07 am from IP # -
bejane.of.uzbekistan
MemberI'm looking at buying a pvc cladded house, it looks like there are original weatherboards underneath. I"m not a builder and don't know much about weatherboard, but love them and would love to buy one. Is there any way you can tell what condition the weatherboards are in without first buying the house and removing the cladding? I'm not really into the cladding, but don't want to rip it off to find heavily deteriorated timber. Thanks.
Posted Sunday 4 Dec 2011 @ 5:38:37 am from IP # -
Buzzman
MemberBejane
What previous poster said may be correct but is not necessarily so.
Often people went for the vinyl weatherboard, or aluminium siding, in order to "even out" the axternal appearance o fthe house, so that it was consistent all over, not a patchwork of different boards and claddings.
That is more likely what you'll find.
weatherboards are normally nailed directly onto the studs, which are almost invariable 100mm thick X 50mm wide. This depth is not much for insulation, and without removing them to put in a reflective barrier, further lessens the effectiveness of injected foam insulation.
My advice would be to remove the weatherboards, batten out the studs and extra 50mm and fill the wall cavity with cheap fibregalss (or less cheap wool) batts, then cover this with reflective foil or similar, and then re-clad in either PVC weatherboards or fibrous sheet weatherboards.
not a "cheap" proposition, but ti would add immeasurable to the thermal mass of the walls, making the house cooler in summer and warmer in winter, thus saving on both cooling and heating costs.
Using vinyl ther'd be no ongoing maintenance (painting) and thus further savings in the 'whole of life' cost of running the house which would more than justify the initial expenditure.
Do the sums. It does add up. Even if you paint the house yourself every 5 years, the paint alone still costs a cuppla grand. Over 20 years that's $10K-ish, and it would cost around that to do the re-clad DIY.
So the savintgs in energy are a bonus on top.Posted Monday 5 Dec 2011 @ 12:23:29 pm from IP # -
Inu
MemberLots of great ideas and input in this thread - so thanks to all for that.
I have a weatherboard rental property in need of a repaint. It also has two boards, in separate places, with fungal rot.
I like the idea of cladding of the boards because:
1) It will save painting costs down the track
2) It will provide greater insulation/comfort for the tenants.I was thinking to cut out the bad sections of board, then clad over the top. This has the risk of the rot spreading through the other boards that would be in a trapped, hot, humid and unseen environment. How dodgy would this be?
The alternative I see is cutting out and replacing the bad sections of board and then try to extend the life of the current timbers without painting as long as possible before tearing it out and going aluminium cladding with insulation.
Any thoughts or comments would be really appreciated.
Also, as an aside, does anybody have any data on the effectiveness of insulation on walls with and without venting of the wall cavity for warmer climates? My hunch is that the venting and convective dissipation of the heat is the crucial factor. I can imagine more robust wall cladding slightly delaying the days heat from penetrating the dwelling but not, ultimately, deflecting it.
Posted Sunday 1 Jan 2012 @ 10:12:42 am from IP #
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